If you\u2019ve ordered 3D printing or prepared a model yourself, you\u2019ve definitely come across the word \u201csupports\u201d. These are temporary structures the printer prints along with the part to keep overhanging features from sagging. After printing they\u2019re removed, leaving just the finished item.<\/p>\n
Customers often ask: \u201cCan we do without them?\u201d Sometimes yes. Sometimes no. Let\u2019s look at when supports are needed, what kinds there are and how to reduce their impact on quality.<\/p>\n
FDM prints layer by layer, from the bottom up. Each new layer sits on the one below. The problem arises when part of the model \u201changs\u201d over empty space \u2014 the plastic has nothing to rest on. Gravity pulls the molten material down, and instead of a flat surface you get sagging strands or a ruined part.<\/p>\n
For such situations, the slicer<\/a> automatically generates supports \u2014 temporary structures that prop up overhangs from below until the plastic sets.<\/p>\n Not every slope needs supports. FDM printers print inclined surfaces unaided \u2014 up to a point. That limit is roughly 45 degrees from vertical<\/strong>. Up to 45\u00b0, each new layer is offset only slightly from the one below, which is enough support.<\/p>\n When the angle goes past 45\u00b0 and approaches horizontal, supports become unavoidable. The classic examples: a horizontal bridge between two posts or a ledge on the edge of a part.<\/p>\n In practice we\u2019ve noticed that PLA handles overhangs better than PETG \u2014 up to 55\u201360\u00b0 without supports with good cooling. PETG is stringier and starts to sag at 45\u00b0.<\/p>\n Vertical columns or walls from the bed to the overhang. Reliable and predictable, but they leave noticeable marks and use more material. We use them for simple geometric parts where the surface under the supports isn\u2019t critical.<\/p>\n Tree-shaped supports \u201cgrow\u201d from the bed and touch the part only where needed. The main advantage is minimal contact with the surface, fewer marks and easier removal. They also use less material. We use tree supports for figurines, sculptures and any organic shapes \u2014 the result is noticeably better.<\/p>\n A newer type in Cura and PrusaSlicer. They combine the advantages of tree supports with better stability. The structure looks like roots \u2014 thin branches merging into thicker trunks. They work well for large models where you need to save material without risking a support collapsing.<\/p>\n Most often, supports are printed in the same material<\/a> as the part. It\u2019s the simplest and cheapest option \u2014 no second extruder needed. After printing, the supports are snapped off or cut away with a knife.<\/p>\n For complex parts with supports in hard-to-reach places, there are soluble materials:<\/p>\n Soluble supports are a premium option. They make sense for parts with complex internal geometry, where you simply can\u2019t reach the supports with a tool.<\/p>\n The best supports are the ones you don\u2019t have to print. Here are the techniques we use every day:<\/p>\n Often it\u2019s enough to rotate a part by 90\u00b0 or 180\u00b0 for the overhangs to disappear. The letter \u201cT\u201d is better printed upside down. A part with one flat side should go on the bed on that side. We always check 3\u20134 orientation options before printing \u2014 sometimes the difference in the amount of support is huge.<\/p>\n It\u2019s often better to cut a complex part into two or three simpler ones, print each without supports and glue them together. It saves material and time, and the surface quality is much higher. A concrete example: an enclosure with a horizontal window \u2014 printed whole, it needs supports inside. Cut in half, it prints without supports in less time.<\/p>\n Replace a horizontal ledge at 90\u00b0 with a 45\u00b0 chamfer \u2014 and you won\u2019t need supports. This principle is called \u201cdesign for printing\u201d, and it\u2019s widespread among experienced designers. More in the article on wall thickness and infill<\/a>.<\/p>\n Round holes up to 10 mm usually print without supports \u2014 the top of the arch sags very little. For larger holes, use a teardrop or diamond shape \u2014 it reduces horizontal spans.<\/p>\n The right settings are a balance between reliability and easy removal. Here are the key parameters with our recommendations:<\/p>\n Tools: pliers, a utility knife, 200\u2013400 grit sandpaper.<\/p>\n Start with the biggest pieces \u2014 they usually snap off by hand or with pliers. Cut away small remnants with a knife. Sand down contact marks. For PLA you can run a heated soldering iron over small bumps; for ABS, use acetone vapour.<\/p>\n If noticeable marks remain after removal, increase the Z distance, reduce the density or try tree supports. More tips in the article on 3D printing mistakes<\/a>.<\/p>\n There are models that can\u2019t do without supports:<\/p>\n In such cases, the key to quality is the right type of support, optimal settings and careful post-processing.<\/p>\n We have experience printing models of any complexity. We\u2019ll choose the orientation, the type of supports and the material for the best surface quality. Send us the model or describe the task<\/a> \u2014 we\u2019ll quote it for free.<\/p>\n Need quality 3D printing? materials<\/a>. prices<\/a>. order printing<\/a>. Delivery across Ukraine by Nova Poshta.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Supports in 3D printing: why they\u2019re needed and how to work with them If you\u2019ve ordered 3D printing or prepared a model yourself, you\u2019ve definitely come across the word \u201csupports\u201d. These are temporary structures the printer prints along with the part to keep overhanging features from sagging. After printing they\u2019re removed, leaving just the finished […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":0,"featured_media":344,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[12],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-472","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-guides"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/472","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=472"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/472\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":577,"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/472\/revisions\/577"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/344"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=472"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=472"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/3dprint.lviv.ua\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=472"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}The 45-degree rule<\/h2>\n
When supports are definitely needed<\/h3>\n
\n
Types of supports<\/h2>\n
Linear (classic)<\/h3>\n
Tree supports<\/h3>\n
Organic<\/h3>\n
Support materials<\/h2>\n
\n
How to reduce supports at the design stage<\/h2>\n
The right orientation<\/h3>\n
Splitting into parts<\/h3>\n
Chamfers instead of right angles<\/h3>\n
Hole shape<\/h3>\n
Support settings in the slicer<\/h2>\n
\n
Removing supports<\/h2>\n
When supports are unavoidable<\/h2>\n
\n
Need a part with complex geometry?<\/h2>\n
Order 3D printing<\/h2>\n